Sunday, April 28, 2013

Epilogue - Moudi's engagement

As noted in the previous posting, the announcement of our bus driver's engagement was the last surprise of the trip. Moudi is an Israeli Arab and we were privileged to admire not only his driving skills (he's only been in this job for 3 years) but also his optimism and sense of hope. At our invitation, Moudi (short for Mahmoud), spoke to our group about his life as a minority citizen. Moudi is very loyal to the State of Israel, grew up among Jews and repeatedly state his hope for peace. "Everyone one is 'B'nei Adam'" he said to me often - we are all children of Adam, one humanity. Everyone is tired of struggle, he would say, we all want peace.

I asked Moudi about his engagement - which happened rather suddenly. Just a week prior he had told Renee that he was not interested in settling down. But while we were away in Eilat, he changed his mind and proposed to his girlfriend (who I believe is a cousin).

Moudi had already built a home. What does that mean? His father had built a house some time ago in an Arab Jerusalem neighborhood. Each of the 4 sons was given a totally empty section of that house, no walls or furniture. Moudi had to literally build it - i.e. put up the walls. A few days ago he asked Renee for some time off so he could buy furniture. That's how she found out he was engaged!

I asked about the rituals of engagement and marriage. Although he is a modern guy, the traditions of his family become very important. First he has to meet with his prospective in-laws. Moudi explained that only his closest family and very closest friends go to that meeting. How many? I asked. About 150 (!)

He does not formally ask for their daughters hand. His father and her father speak and together they negotiate a dowry.

There is also a separate engagement party which Moudi has to pay for. This will be for hundreds of people. And then sometime between 6 months and a year after will be the actual wedding.

I think we all wish we could attend! And we all wish Moudi and his bride to be all the good fortune in the world.

Saturday, April 27, 2013

April 27, 2013 - Dead Sea, Red Sea. . .Now Shabbat on the Med Sea

(Updated from Ben Gurion airport - now with even more pictures!)

A leisurely Shabbat Day in Tel Aviv - our last in Israel (for now!)



We began the day with a meditative Shabbat morning service on a jetty leading out into the Mediterranean Sea. We have a beautiful Sanctuary at home, but there was something so lovely about praying with the sound of the waves against the rocks and our prayers stretching over the city in one direction and the sea in the other.



The bulk of the day was free. After enjoying a luxuriously late breakfast, we all spent time around the city. Some stayed on the beach and swam in the sea - fulfilling the Dead Sea, Red Sea, Med Sea trifecta. Others took long walks along the boardwalk or into the city. Tel Aviv is a great place of people-watching as well as enjoying the beautiful architecture, the sun and the sea.



In the late afternoon, we had a special treat. A few years ago CBI began connecting with gay couples who were having children through surrogacy. This cannot be done in Israel and couples have to go to either India or the United States. For some reason Oregon is a optimal place for the couples to begin their families. We have been converting and holding brises for these children. Four of these families have had their first Jewish ceremonies at Congregation Beth Israel. As a thank you, the first of those couples, Guy Tatsay and Lucian Laur hosted our entire group along with the families and other couples who are in the process. It was an emotional and festive reunion and we are thrilled to be reconnecting with these families.



Our time in Israel ended with a farewell dinner and havdalah in the newly renovated Jaffa Port. We shared the last surprise of the trip: while we were in Eilat, our driver Moudi became engaged!


We had a quiet Havdalah as we each reflected on our time in Israel and listened to the waves of the Mediterranean washing onto the rocks behind, us as the bonfires of Lag B'Omer began to be lit.


We leave Israel, emotionally rich, rejuvenated and grateful for the meaning that Israel can bring into our lives.



L'hitraot! See you again soon.
















Friday, April 26, 2013

April 26 - Foundations of a City and a State

By universal acclimation it has been decided by our group that the Carlton in Tel Aviv has the best breakfast buffet of any place we've stayed. I know you'd want to know.


The weather was perfect in Tel Aviv as we began our tour of the old and new in this city. We began by driving along the promenade and entering the Old City of Jaffa. We walked its narrow alleys, so reminiscent of Safed, as Renee told us about the city ancient and modern history. It is today an art colony and a place where Arab and Jew and foreign tourists meet.


We drove through the new city and saw the beautiful mix of juxtaposed 100 year old and ultra modern architecture.


Soon we came to the newly opened Yitzhak Rabin Center. This very moving and hi-tech museum tells the story of modern Israel reflected through the life of Yitzhak Rabin, the former Army Chief of Staff, Ambassador to America, Defense and Prime Minister. Rabin's assassination in November 1995 shook Israel as no other event has. We felt Israeli's history and struggles very personally through this visit. Even more so when we went soon after to the site where Rabin was killed, now known as Rabin Square. It was at a peace rally, just before elections - and the prospect of peace as well as the tensions surrounding it were never so high. There I read the last words of his speech and Cantor lead us in singing "Shir Lashalom" the song of peace (lyrics by Yaakov Rotblit and melody by Yair Rosenblum).


The mood was a bit heavy and we needed some time to reconnect with life. So we were released for lunch and shopping at the colorful Carmel Market and Nachalt Binyamin in downtown Tel Aviv. Afterwards we walked through the newly gentrified Neve Zedek neighborhood filled with classic Bauhaus architecture for which Tel Aviv is famous.

After a brief rest, we gathered together for services at one of the most famous Reform synagogues in Israel - Beit Daniel. It was very lovely. Although the service was entirely in Hebrew, some of the songs were familiar. Rabbi Meir Azari spoke about the Women of the Wall, and how Israeli Jews, even Reform, don't understand and appreciate the issues involved sufficiently. The congregation greeted us quite warmly and it was very interesting to see Reform Judaism at work in Israel for Israelis.

Afterwards we were joined for Shabbat dinner by two surprise guests: Adam Rozansky and Josh Ingbar, both graduates of Temple's high school program and both in Israel, Adam for a year of study before collage, and Josh as a new recruit in the Israeli army. Everyone enjoyed getting to know or being reacquainted with these young men, both on very different paths in Israel.

We all enjoyed an opulent erev Shabbat dinner at the hotel - and prepared for a peaceful last day in Israel.

Shabbat Shalom!








































Thursday, April 25, 2013

April 25 - Beach Bumming in Eilat


It was a free day in the city of Eilat. We loved standing on the beach with views from Israel to 3 Arab countries: Jordan, Saudi Arabia and Egypt.



Some early risers had the remarkable opportunity to visit the Underwater Observatory before dawn. The observatory looks out into the open reef and we see life in the wild. With our guide, my cousin Dr. Nadav Shashar, we watched as the coral reef literally woke up. The "changing of the guard" from nocturnal to diurnal species. We also watched as several newly awakened fish waited patiently in line for the cleaner fish to wake up and open for business. They like to sleep in. We had no such luxury.



Our group split between those who took a mid afternoon flight back to Tel Aviv and those who remained in Eilat to snorkel, walk, or just lay on the beach.



It was good to fly back. You have to love an airline where the pilot wishes everyone a "Shabbat Shalom." You have to love an airport where the chapel signs lead you to the synagogue!



By evening we were all in Tel Aviv for dinner on our own. Some with family, some in community.



We needed a relaxing day after our very busy last few ones.



Sababa!
















Wednesday, April 24, 2013

April 24, 2013 - Petra!

After a long somewhat complicated boarder crossing, we left Eilat and Israel and passed into the Hashimate Kingdom of Jordan. It was not lost on anyone how remarkable it is to move so freely into a nation that was once so hostile to Israel. Is Jordan a model of what a future peace may look like?



We met our guide, Moad, who taught us a few words in Arabic and gave us some history and modern facts about Jordan. Moad is a Beduin and he told us about some of the challenges the Beduin people have especially as global warming is challenging traditional lifestyles.



He also talked about the problem of Syrian refugees, maybe 500,000, who are fleeing the civil war. Jordan has seen it as their responsibility to bring them in, with US aid. But their future is unknown.



We passed through the city of Aqaba, the southernmost city of Jordan and the location of the only port and beach of the country.



We traveled north through stunning, rugged sandstone mountains we had glimpsed from the Israeli side, and through the wide expanse of Wadi Rom and into Wadi Mousa; the Wadi of Moses the Prophet. Like the Israelites we wander in this rugged land outside of Israel. It is a wild beauty.



It is a 2 hour ride until we come to Petra. What can we say about Petra? Words and pictures do not do justice. As we wander through the deep winding canyons we continually see massive and ancient Nabatian structures carved out of the striated sandstone. Awe inspiring is cliche. And accurate.



We spent the day walking and gazing. Some of us rode wildly riding horse-drawn carriages down the canyon. Others rode horses and camels throughout. The Jordanian people we met were beautiful and gracious. It was a great deal of hiking and riding in any case. We emerged hot and tired and proud of ourselves for our fortitude!



After a lovely buffet lunch/dinner in a Jordanian hotel (Silk Road) we returned for the 2 hour bus ride under a nearly full moon rising over the pink and brown Jordanian mountains. As the sun set we came back to Aqaba and the Israeli border.

Welcome home!