April 23, 2013 - From Mystics to Dreamers

(Sorry for the delay in posting - the wi-fi was down in the hotel. horrors!)

Not easy to leave the beauty and comfort of Kfar Blum. But the morning found us traveling down South, back through the Hula Valley. Then, with the Kinneret before us, we climbed up through the hills to the Holy City of Safed.



Safed is one of the four cities in Israel which have had continuous Jewish settlement. (Jerusalem, Hebron and Tiberius. You're welcome.) It is also a city which nurtured a mystical tradition which continues to this day. We met with David Friedman, an artist who lives in the city and whose work is based on Kabbalistic themes. (Also rock album covers of the 1960's). Using his art, he gave us a fascinating insight into some of the mystical teachings. I later gave an overview of how Kabbalah and traditional Jewish teachings interact, and the ways that Reform Judaism has begun to incorporate some of these elements. I also gave some personal family history and it's connection to Safed.



After touring some beautiful 16th C. synagogues still in use, we had some time to wander the winding streets, do some shopping and had a presentation on micrographic art, including one piece which contained the entire Torah!



We left Sfed and wound down the hills past stunning views of the Kinneret until we arrived at a spot not on our itinerary - but which we were very happy we were able to see: the tombs of Beit Shaarim.



Beit Shaarim is an archeological park were many 6th Century sarcophagi have been found. It was also one of the last meeting places of the Sanhedrin. We entered through small doors built into a cliff face and found ourselves standing among huge, heavy and intricately carved stone coffins. These caves are the resting places of some of the famous rabbis of the Mishnah, including the complier of the Mishnah itself, Rabbi Judah Ha-Nasi. I explained briefly the origin and evolution of the Mishnah and it's place as the source text for the Talmud. We also talked about the ongoing process of rabbinic commentary which continues to this day - all traced back to this remarkable rabbi.



From there we drove south, past Haifa along the Mediterranean coast until we came to Tel Aviv. After dropping our bags at the hotel, we continued on to Dov Hoz - a small airport in Tel Aviv where we flew down to Eilat. Everyone had dinner at various local restaurants as we get ready for tomorrow trip to Petra.

April 22, 2013 - Security and Serenity on the Golan Heights

Today was a day of emotional and marked contrasts.

After a big kibbutz breakfast, we drove up to the Kibbutz Misgav Am - at the edge of the Lebanon and Syrian boarder, before 1967 part of the farthest north of Israel. It was a grey and rainy day, but we could still see through the fence right into both countries, technically still at war with Israel. There we met with one of the kibbutz members, Areyeh Ben Yaakov. Areyeh shared quite frankly his attitude at living on a hostile border, including the experience of being shelled non-stop during more than 30 days of the Lebanon War, and several attempted infiltrations. Not surprisingly, perhaps, he is definite and defiant in his opinions of the Arab intentions towards Israel. It is not about peace. "G-d makes peace," he said, "Men make cease-fires. Peace is not my objective. I came here to stay alive and protect the Jewish people."



Soon afterwards we climbed up through the Golan Heights, passed Nimrod castle, across to another boarder with Syria. We came to Majdal Shams, a Druze village at the edge of the "Valley of Tears." There, in this hilltop town, amidst it's narrow winding roads, we met with a local resident named Sulaman. He told us about the difficulties of living there, the proximity to land mines, the closed in nature of being in an area bounded by settlements. He took us to the "Valley of Tears" and described how Druze families are split between those living in Israel and those living in Syria. How they get family news and share joys and sorrows by shouting across the valley. Over a gracious meal of very flat Druze pita and labeneh, Sulaman was even more forthcoming in his feelings about living under occupation. Although many Druze are citizens of Israel and even serve in the army (the only Arabs conscripted), his group does not. They feel closely allied with the Syrian Druze. Sulaman spoke of the injustices he feels from the Israeli government and wants the occupation of the Golan heights to end, even though life in a Syrian Golan would be worse. "Here we have political freedom, but no civil freedom" he said. There we would have civil freedom even without political freedom. Ironic because he himself is certain that if his village became Syrian, he would immediately be sent to jail!



It is very hard to reconcile these two worlds we heard about today.



We continued with a view across "Emek Habecha", the "Valley of Tears" and heard about the dangers Israel felt when Syria held these lands overlooking Israel proper and freely shot at the kibbutzim below. The Valley was the site of the one of the fiercest battles during the Yom Kippur War. At kibbutz El-Rom we saw a film about the tank battle there and the OZ77 battalion which greatly outnumbered they bravely stopped the Syrian army.



We came away knowing the choices are hard and the issues are intense. But, with the help of some singing on the bus, we hold on to hope.



It was time for something lighter and we visited a boutique winery at Kibbutz Ein Zivan called "Bahat" where we learned a bit about wine making and tasted some of the unique wines of the region. As it happened the tasting room was next to a hand-crafted chocolate shop. No sweet was safe from our group!



Some of us headed back to Kfar Blum for some rest while others carried on to the Naot factory for some shoe shopping!



After a bit of rest we went out to dinner at Le Charolais at the foot of the Golan Heights with a group of IDF combat soldiers stationed nearby. It was sweet being with these dedicated young men. Some of the soldiers told us of former duty in the Ramallah and other hot spots, of regularly having rocks thrown at them by young Arab children, of narrowly avoiding IED's laid in the road to destroy them. Some of us could easily imagine our sons and grandsons in these dangerous positions. Hearing their stories brought the situation even closer to home for us.

April 21, 2013 - Dreams and Conquests on the Road North

It was hard to say good-bye to Jerusalem after such a meaningful week. But the bus does not wait, and so we traveled through East Jerusalem on the same road West we took towards Masada. This time, though, when we reached the Dead Sea we began our journey North through the Jordan Valley.



We passed Jericho, claiming to be the oldest inhabited city on earth. Since leaving Jerusalem we have been in the West Bank. As we drove through this area of the northern Negev desert we began to see large agricultural areas mixed with Palestinian villages. Renee explained that these were Israeli kibbutim. We began to see out integrated these communities are and how difficult it becomes to separate them. And we saw many red signs indicating that it was forbidden for Israeli citizens to enter particular areas because their safety could not be guaranteed. It is hard to separate, and it is hard to integrate. There are no easy solutions.



We also passed by security fences separating the West Bank from Jordan, just a short distance away. Some of the farming techniques from the Israelis have come to be adopted by Jordanians, and their side is blooming.



We passed through an Israeli checkpoint into Israel proper. We soon came to the Beit Shean National Park and Renee led us on an extensive tour of the ancient ruins, particularly the new restorations of the Roman-Byzantine City. There on the stage of the Roman amphitheater, Cantor Cahana thrilled us (and all the other tourists around us!) with a bit of Puccini and Gershwin's "Summertime." A true highlight.



A short ride back South brought us to Kibbutz Sde Eliyahu, still in Israel proper. There we learned how this Orthodox Kibbutz, among the oldest in the country, reformulated itself into a major producer of organic produce. Under the "Bio-Bee" label, they have become a world leader in the production and implementation of natural techniques of pest control, using Barn Owls and Kestrels to control rodents, and predator insects to control pests eliminating the need for pesticides. We also learned about the use of donkeys for weed control (and we got to feed them) and bumblebees for pollination. We were all taken by the natural technology led by Jewish principles and commitment.



After stopping for falafel at the famous "Falafel Zahava" (we know it's good, because all the soldiers stop there) we continued North through ever greener territory. We rounded Lake Kinneret and passed the city of Tiberias as we learned about the great rabbis who completed the Mishnah there - and heard the poetry of the writer Rachel, whose great longing for the Kinneret helps define the spirit of the region.



All along the way we have been watching birds throughout the Jordan valley. Israel is a pathway for 500 million migrating birds annually and we were exited to identify a few species. But in Agamon Hahula (the Hula Lake) we had a special treat. We boarded bicycles and golf carts for a ride around the lake, where we saw many species of birds and quite a few of a particular water mammal which some of us were convinced were R.U.S's, but were later informed were Nutria or "water rats." It was good to ride a bike and be outdoors in nature after a full day of traveling.



Finally we came to the kibbutz we will be staying in for two days, here in the Upper Galilee, Kfar Blum. Many of us expected a simple kibbutz experience, not the elegant and luxurious accommodations we found. After an extravagant buffet dinner, those of us who could continue had a very special experience. Renee gave us an overview of the geopolitical situation between the Palestinians and the Israelis - some of it we had glimpsed today. It was historic and personal. Then our bus driver, Moodi, joined her. Some of us had already gotten to know this exceptional young man. But here, he shared his personal perspective as an Israeli Arab living in Jerusalem. Moodi seems himself as an Israeli first and expressed the sadness he hears from many of his friends. They want peace and the ability to pursue their own lives in peace.



Although there is much which divides us, we are all also "Ben Adam" - human beings. (the same term in Hebrew and in Arabic). That unites us.

April 20, 2013 - Shabbat Rest!

Shabbat in Jerusalem is a beautiful thing. It is the time when you realize most clearly - this land operates on a Jewish calendar. It is quiet, it is restful. The street traffic is minimal. It is our day.

We had a free day from programming. Some people slept in (nice!), some took walks. Some went to Old City to see David's Tower. Others walked the ramparts of the old city walls for beautiful views of the Old City and into East Jerusalem. Several went to services at Hebrew Union College, a short walk from our hotel. Cantor Cahana help to lead the services with some of the first year Cantorial and Rabbinic students. Afterwards they toured the beautiful campus designed by Moshe Safdie. We saw the new Social Hall / synagogue on top of Beit Shemuel with its stunning modernist design and even more stunning views of the Old City.

The weather today has been unpredictable. Blue sky and deep black rain clouds. Some people got caught in a cold downpour - making us Portlanders feel very at home.

If the weather holds we will gather for a havdalah ceremony marking the end of Shabbat, at Yamin Moshe, the oldest Jewish settlement outside the Old City. After that everyone will have dinner and shopping on our own. Many will go to Ben Yehuda street to see how the quiet pedestrian walkway bursts to life once shabbat ends.

Shavua tov!

Update: since writing this entry, we held a Havdalah in the hotel to avoid the rain and cold. During the service we shared stories of miracles and the experiences some of us have had in Jerusalem - the Holy City.

Bonnie Barg brought tears to all our eyes when she shared that, thanks to recent cochlear implants, she heard the Havdalah candle being extinguished tonight for the first time in her life!

A Shabbat miracle.

April 19, 2013 - Masada and the Dead Sea

The name says it all. An early morning start got us traveling through East Jerusalem and into the West Bank. We passed checkpoints we barely noticed, but a Palestinian traveling into Israel proper surely would. We passed several Palestinian towns as well as Israeli "settlements" which, like Maale Adumim, are really suburban towns of Jerusalem which, although over the "Green Line" will be kept by Israel in any future settlement, and a swap of equivalent land will be in a future Palestinian state.


Along the way toward the Dead Sea, as we entered the stunning Negev Desert, we passed several Beduin areas and on our way back Renee explained some of the complication with this community as well.


But our aim was Masada. Several of our stalwart travelers climbed the "snake path" in the heat of the mid-morning sun. Others look the more stately tram to the top. There, with remarkable desert views, Renee gave us the history of the fortress. Although the story is well-known, it is quite different hearing among the very rocks.


After lunch we drove back north along the Dead Sea to Mineral Beach where we floated in the Dead Sea, covered ourselves in mud and some even floated in the mineral springs. All very relaxing!


Then it was time to get ready for Shabbat. Later tonight we will go to services at Kehillat Kol Haneshema led by Rabbi Levi Weiman-Kelman. Since Renee is a member there, she gave us some history of the congregation beforehand. After, a lovely erev Shabbat dinner at the hotel together as a community. We miss our home at CBI tonight, but very happy and excited to spend our first Shabbat together in Jerusalem!

Shabbat Shalom!